The Brezza Boys- Barolo Through the Eyes of 3rd and 4th Generation Producers (video)
It’s fascinating what you learn by being there. You can study all you want in books, but seeing a wine region in person unlocks a reality that takes you to a new understanding. You experience the smells, the color, the people, the vineyards and it finally lifts off the pages of your wine books and becomes tangible.
I was fortunate to have Paolo Ferrero as a tour guide while in Piedmont. A native to the area and author of several books on the region, Paolo has the ability to show you Piedmont in a way that would be impossible as a foreigner.
We visited Giacomo Brezza & Fils. The video below was taken at the entrance of Brezza’s original cellar built in 1885. It was once used for cellar operations and is now used for oak maturation. The gentleman translating is Paolo and the winemaker is Oreste Brezza who talks about their four Grand Cru from Vineyards Bricco Saramassa, Saramassa, Cannubi and Castellero.
Want to watch it in a larger format? Go here.
After the tour we had a traditional Piedmontese lunch in their winery. The dessert they served was off-the-hook for the simple reason that it contained their Barolo as the main ingredient. The dish was made with egg white, sugar and –yep- their Barolo mixed in. It was outstanding for the geek-out fact that Barolo in the U.S. is just too fantastic and coveted to rock in a recipe.
Have I mentioned we tried through a whole line-up of their wines? Langhe Chardonnay, Dolcetto d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Barolo. Their wines exhibit elegance wrapped in a balance of tradition and modern technique.
Use of Oak
Our conversation over lunch led to a discussion about their use of oak. Enzo Brezza is the family’s fourth generation winemaker. He commented they sell their old barrels to port and whiskey producers once the barrels have maxed at around 11 years.
(this is Enzo)
Several generations ago barrels were used for upwards of 40 to 60 years. The older oak barrels would basically dry up and impart dry tannins into the wine. When used with the tannic nebbiolo grape the practice lead to a gripping experience on the palate, a wine stripped of its fruit and problems with volatile acidity.
Due to its high tannins, a Barolo once required a good 20 years of bottle age before it was even approachable, and 30 to 40 years for optimum maturity. That said today you can enjoy the wine much earlier due, in part, to the region’s updated use of oak.
Consumption and Wine Quality
Where oak practices have modernized, so too have levels of consumption. Enzo commented that several generations ago agricultural workers used wine as food. They would each drink roughly a liter of wine a day out in the fields, which gave them energy.
Wine produced during that time was made with quantity in mind, which greatly lowered alcohol levels and the overall intensity of the wine.
Consumption today, however, is much lower than it once was. As well, the introduction of new technologies including the use of stainless steel tanks, temperature-controlled fermentation and defined single vineyards has increased the overall quality of wine in the region.
I leave you with a few pictures I took:
Above:Taken on our way into town
Above: The beautiful landscape
This biker happened to randomly show up in one of my photos during our drive into town!
If you plan to visit Piedmont, I highly recommend contacting Paolo. You’ll have the chance to meet some amazing people while there. You might even be lucky enough to visit the Brezza boys…
Lead image courtesy of Azienda Agricola Brezza Giacomo e Figli. Photo of Enzo boldly borrowed from The Wandering Palate, a blog worth checking out. Video and bottom images taken by my Flipcam, which I adore.
